ice climbing
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Hi Im travelling to tromso from the uk in november this year and was hoping to get some info about the ice climbing in the area.
what area would be good for an improving beginner?
What are the ice conditions likely to be like at that time of year?
Is a car essential to get to the climbs?
Can anyone recommend a good (not to expensive) guide? or climbing partner
Hope someone can help
Steve
November is often a bit early for good ice climbing. Alpine climbing in Grøtfjorden is often a better idea this early. Most established routs + some ice climbs are described in the local climbing guide (Kvaløya. Slected climbs)
City climbing:
There is a crag (sort of) at Lunheim quary, just below the ski lift. City bus no 24 will take you almost to the bottom of the quary, then walk up to the upper ledge where you'll usually find the best conditions. These lines are usually some of the earliest to form and can be top-roped from the birch trees above. Bring an extra rope to extend the top rope
During the winter, several lines of varying difficulty usually forms on the right hand (south) side of the Tromsdalen valley. City bus no 26 will take you to the start of the ski/ valking path up the valley
If you rent a car there are several good spots.
Eastwards:
Furuflaten: Drive to Lyngseidet, then south. Several lines visible from the road. Also some easily accessible lines above/along the tunnel just south of Furuflaten. Consider the avalanche risk.
Signaldalen: E8 to Nordkjodbotn, then E6 eastwards. Follow road signs to Signaldalen, where several lines are visible form the road
Birtavarre: Further east along E6. Drive to the start of the tractor road leading up along the Kåfjord river. Several lines along the tractor road, though the easier lines are further up the valley where it narrows into a gorge. Mind the ice thickness when walking on the river, and the possibility of falling ice in the gorge.
South:
Tamokdalen: E8 to Nordkjosbotn, then E6 eastwards for a short while before taking south on R87. Several lines visible form the road.
Iselvdalen: Continue R87 until an intersection just south of Rundhaug (belive the sign says "Kirkesdalen"). Follow signs towards iselvdalen, and park next to the farm at the end of the road on the west side of the river. Follow a tractor road from the farm until you reach the river. Then follow the river up to the gorge. 3-4 2-pitch lines of varying difficulty
Sørdalen: Follow the E6 south to Setermoen, then R847 along Barduelva, and then Sørelva (Bardu River and South River). Several long and serious routes in the valley above both rivers
Salangen: Follow E6 south from Setermoen, then R851 west towards Sjøvegan. Stop at the western end of Øvrevatnet. Several ice and a couple of mix lines, bolted among others by Guy Lacelle, at the northern shore of the lake. Make sure the ice is safe before crossing the lake
Spansdalen: Follow the E6 further south to Fossbakken, then take R84 west towards Tennevoll. Several lines of varying difficulty on both sides of the road in the upper part of the valley
some resources
http://www.visveg.no route planner in Norway
http://www.cominor.no bus company
http://www.bjorklid.no Lyngen ferry
Wow! Mange fler muligheter i fylket enn jeg trodde.
lots of infomation thank you
Har Bård vært i steinbruddet ennå?
Trur han var der i går...
Noen om har vært der de siste par dagene og kan si noe om forholdene?
Var på Lunheim i formiddag å klatra 7-8 linjer, lite is men helt klart bra nok for topptauing, isen er for tynn for skruer men det er nok bare ettpar dager til med frost før det er tykt og fint.
Iselvdalen 19/11
Høytrykk på Kola skur ned termostaten mot -30 til uka, så ser ut som showet er over for denne gang. Krysser fingra for godt 0-føre mot slutten av januar, og at isen er like feit og fin da
Ble da ikke i nærheten av -30 noen steder, hvis du trenger nullføre for å klatre har du en jævli kort sesong. Du trenger vel heller ikke 20 grader, sol og vindstille for å klatre på sva.