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sportclimbing / bouldering in lappland

7 replies [Siste innlegg]
Anonym

      Hi!
We are a group of enthusiastic Spanish climbers from the Valencia region who are thinking about heading to lappland for the summer ; it is still a project,so all information is welcome! Our idea would be to start at the lofoten islands,then cover by car northern norway , northern sweden (above kiruna) and northern finnland. What we do is mainly sport climbing and bouldering.
    We were thinking about taking two months for the project,july and august. However,what we lack is information,especially guidebooks and topos. Can you recommend us some crags or tell us some good guidebook names which cover this zone? If you don´t know about sweden and finnland, maybe just about the northern norway part (lofoten-tromso).
   All other kind of advice,tips and/or warnings are also welcome :)
  Many thanks beforehand!
 Yours,
Alex
PS. Takk :)

Anonym (ikke bekreftet)

Nice project!

You should start off around the town of Bodø, at the polar circle, lots of great bouldering and also some sport climbing. Buy the topo here: http://www.bodoklatreklubb.no/Klatrefelteng.htm
Then, take the ferry to Lofoten.
For sportsclimbing: http://home.no.net/forer/
For bouldering: http://kompassi.com/~ffast/WeatherReport.avi
Then drive to Tromsø. Buy the topo here: http://www.blixt.no/KvaloyaArchives
In Sweden: bouldering in Abisko, some sports climbing in Kiruna and then the best crag in Scandinavia, Niemisel.
For info about Finland, check www.slouppi.net.

Have a nice trip!

Anonym (ikke bekreftet)

Thanks for the answer,the links are really helpful! I looked at some images of Niemisel,and it looks great! Very tough,but great!
Just one more question,maybe you know something about this.
When looking for information about climbing in the Lofoten Islands,I came several times across this : 
       "Lofoten is 100% trad climbing, although there are bolts on some abseils...."   or
       "There are no sport climbs here and although bolts do occur from time to time on the crags, their use has been very minimal and the preference has bin to preserve somewhat run out leads."

     Is this true? I ask because we´re mainly sport-climbers, I would not dare to try even a 6a+ on gear :)

Anonym (ikke bekreftet)

Yes, Lofotoen is mostly trad climbing. But there is a crag for sports climbing at Eggum. It's a really beautiful location, with a great view of the ocean.

This is a list of the bolted routes there (norwegian grades):

http://home.no.net/forer/rutereggum.htm

Laura (ikke bekreftet)

Sounds like a really cool trip!

Just to add something about the guide book Polarsirkkelklatring (polarcirkle climbing) ; you should check out Straumvassbotn.
It's a really nice place for bouldering. Grades are from beginners to really hard ones. It's located by a lake and approach is short and easy. You can camp by the lake (the lake is drinking water so no bathing!) or at the local camping where you can rent a cabin or a place for your tent etc.

A place called the Gjerdalen (also known as The Magic Valley) is allso worth visiting. A valley up in the mountains with beautiful scenery. A lot of boulders and quality problems but only a few listed in the book. A lot of potential for new problems!

In Northen-Finland I'v heard that there is some really cool bouldering and climbing at Rovaniemi. Best to check with guys from www.slouppi.net

Good luck for your trip!

We are heading to Albarracin on wednesday for one week. Have you been there? Any last minute recommendations? =)

hilsen

Laura

Alex (ikke bekreftet)

         Thanks for the tips!
        Yes I have been to Albarracin,it´s definitely the Mecca of bouldering in Spain. It´s still a bit cold over there,like 15 degrees,but I´m sure that´s no problem if you come from Norway :) I don´t know what to recommend you,just...boulder :) One week is not that much,but if you decide that one day you want to climb routes instead of bouldering,you have two very good places to go to,both reachable in 2 hours or less by car. One is Cuenca,the other one is Montanejos. I´ve been to both of them recently,and I can only recommend them! Montanejos has more than 1400 routes and I think Cuenca isn´t by any means worse.
       Straumvassbotn and Gjerdalen sound great! Do you have any more insider tips? =) We don´t mind walking at all,and we´ll have plenty of time :)

Anonym (ikke bekreftet)

I have to admid that we are actually (almost) only boulderers, but thank you anyway for the climbing tips. One week is not that much but we'll try to make the best out of it. Temperatures won't be a problem, 15 degrees is almost like normal summer up here. Good friction =)

If you end up in Tromsø, post a message here and maybe we can show you some of the bouldering!

Laura

Anonym (ikke bekreftet)

If you go ever go back to Albarracin you can find an online guide in norop.es

They also cover some other bouldering spots in Spain

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